Car Hauler

Open car haulers expose the vehicle to weather, road debris, and road spray during transport. They're less expensive, easier to load, and work fine for daily drivers or project vehicles. Enclosed car haulers protect the vehicle from the elements and keep it out of sight. They cost more but are the right choice for classics, show cars, race cars, or high-value vehicles where any damage during transport is unacceptable.

For a single standard-size car, a 20' trailer gives you enough room to load and secure comfortably. If you're hauling a truck, a lifted vehicle, or need extra room for a motorcycle alongside the car, consider 24' or longer. Multi-vehicle haulers (two or three cars) require 36'–50' gooseneck configurations. Measure your vehicle's wheelbase and overall length to confirm it fits the deck, and account for ramp angle when loading low-clearance cars.

The truck requirements depend on the combined weight of the trailer and the vehicle being transported. A single open car hauler loaded with a standard passenger car typically weighs 6,000–9,000 lbs total. A 3/4-ton or 1-ton pickup (F-250, F-350, Ram 2500/3500, or equivalent) handles this comfortably. For gooseneck configurations or multi-vehicle setups, a 1-ton truck with a gooseneck hitch in the bed is required. Always verify your truck's specific tow rating—not just the truck class.

For ramp-style trailers, deploy the ramps fully and make sure they're stable before driving onto them. Drive slowly and straight up the ramps, centering the vehicle on the deck. Once in position, shift to park, set the emergency brake, and disconnect the battery on non-running vehicles. Secure with four wheel nets or axle straps—one at each wheel. Chains can be used for heavier vehicles. Double-check that the vehicle is centered and that nothing is dragging before moving.

Wheel nets and wheel baskets are the most vehicle-friendly option—they hold the tire without putting stress on suspension components. Axle straps loop around the axle and provide a solid anchor point. Frame straps attach to the vehicle frame using soft loops. Avoid hooking tie-downs to exhaust components, brake lines, or aftermarket body parts. Use four tie-down points and make sure each strap has a working load limit appropriate for the vehicle's weight.

Yes. For a non-running vehicle, you'll need a way to get it onto the trailer—either push it with help, use a come-along winch, or have someone with a forklift or tow truck assist. Once on the trailer, disconnect the battery, put the transmission in neutral (manual) or park (automatic with parking brake set), and secure it the same way you would a running vehicle. Check that the steering is locked straight so the vehicle can't shift side to side during transport.

Texas law requires brakes on trailers with a GVWR over 4,500 lbs. Most car haulers rated for a full-size vehicle will exceed this threshold once loaded. Electric trailer brakes controlled by a brake controller in the tow vehicle are the standard setup. Make sure your tow vehicle is equipped with a compatible brake controller before hauling a loaded car hauler.

A gooseneck car hauler connects via a ball hitch in the truck bed rather than a rear receiver hitch. This distributes trailer weight better across the truck's axles and allows for longer, heavier configurations. You'll want a gooseneck setup if you're hauling two or three vehicles at once, regularly transporting heavy vehicles like diesel trucks or large SUVs, or doing professional vehicle transport where higher payload matters.

Yes. Car hauler trailers work well for motorcycles and ATVs, especially the open bumper pull styles. For a motorcycle, you'll want a wheel chock to hold the front wheel stable and straps at four points to keep it upright. For an ATV or side-by-side, confirm the width fits within the trailer's usable deck width and secure with four straps. Some buyers use car haulers specifically because they can switch between towing a vehicle and loading recreational equipment depending on the trip.

Low-clearance vehicles like sports cars, lowered trucks, or slammed show cars require careful attention to ramp angle. Look for a trailer with long ramps or an adjustable dovetail that lowers the entry angle. Approach the ramps straight on and slowly. Using ramp extensions or slip-on approach ramps can help if the standard ramps still create a scrape risk. Measure the vehicle's ground clearance at the front air dam and compare it to the ramp's rise before loading.